Blue Green Copper Patina

Verzinkshop Blue & Green Patina

Verzinkshop Blue & Green Patina for copper and brass and produces a blue to green finish.

It produces a consistent color and is very user-friendly.

The liquid is supplied as a concentrate and is mixed with water in a ratio of 15 to 20% concentrate and 85 to 80% water.
By adjusting the strength of the liquid and time of immersion, a variation of various colors can be created.

• 50 ml makes at least 250 ml of patina liquid.
• 100 ml makes at least 500 ml of patina liquid.
• 200 ml makes at least 1000 ml of patina liquid.

Patinating and protecting copper green and blue.

Verde verde green patina electrolyte can be used to give copper and brass objects a unique blue and green patina with an aged appearance. This can be used to change the appearance of the object, making it look old-fashioned or antique. By then finishing the patina with, for example, wax, an oil-based sealer such as the Verzinkshop DeepSeal Metal Sealer, or a clear coat, you can protect the patina and prevent it from discolouring further due to external influences.

Verzinkshop Green & Blue Patina application

Cleaning and Rinsing for the object:

Make sure that the metal object to be treated is free of grease and dirt.

For galvanized objects: Rinse the metal thoroughly with cold water, followed by a short rinse in 5% sulfuric acid or use Verzinkshop Activator. Then rinse well with water.

For solid metal objects and sheet material: Mechanically clean the metal with an abrasive medium or dry clean with, for example, the Verzinkshop Activator. Then rinse well to remove the remaining solution or loose metal particles.

Using the patina liquid:
Dilute the liquid for the desired effect as indicated in the manual and submerge the object while it is still wet from rinsing with water.
When using immersion baskets, the parts must be moved when immersed in the solution to remove air bubbles and to ensure that the solution touches all surfaces.

Rinse:
Rinse the object well with running cold water. Hot water can be used to speed up drying after being rinsed off with cold water to minimize staining.
Hot rinsing is done between 70 and 80 degrees and the rinsing water should be slowly replaced with fresh water to prevent stains.

Dry:
Drying can be done with the help of a cloth or with a heat gun.
Forced drying can be done in heated centrifuges and ovens, or with cornmeal to minimize streaks and stains.
Large architectural panels should be dried with a cloth or blown dry.
Parts that are treated directly with a sealer do not need to be dried.

Sealing and finishing:
You can achieve a light antique finish by polishing or brushing the object.

Sealing is done by immersing the object, while it is still wet from the previous rinse, in one of the following products:
• For a hard, dry finish, use the Electrolyte Acrylic Sealer.
• For a slightly oily finish, use DeepSeal Metal Sealer electrolyte.
• It is also possible to finish the object with, for example, a wax or other sealer choice.