Why is no copper applied?
Check that the anode and cathode are not touching each other in the electroforming tank.
If you’re using a copper tube to hang objects from, make sure the anode doesn’t make contact with it. Next, check that the connecting wires are connected correctly: the red wire (+) is attached to the copper anodes, or the wire connecting the anodes. The black wire (–) is attached to the object (the cathode). If these are reversed, the process will not work.
If the problem is not resolved, it could be one of the following reasons:
- The conductivity of the conductive coating on the design is not strong enough and needs more layers.
- The copper hanging wire has a coating so that it does not conduct electricity. Use only unvarnished copper wire. The anchor or the fastening ring must also have no coating.
- If corrosion is present on the terminals of the connecting wires, anode, suspension wire or copper pipe, connection problems will occur. Clean all parts thoroughly and try again.
- The power supply or connecting wires may be defective. Check for cable breaks.
Why Does It Take That Long For The Copper To Cover My Conductive Paint?
There are several reasons that cause the copper to slowly cover the object:
- Different types of conductive paint have different conductivity. The higher the conductivity (the lower the resistance), the faster the object will be covered. A conductive coating applied too thinly will affect the coverage.
- Too low amperes per surface area of the cathode will also affect the deposition rate of the copper layer.
- Contaminated electrolyte, for example due to organic pollution or an excess of copper, will become unbalanced at several points. As soon as the pH value rises above 1, the bath will function less well.
- Too much brightener, V-Brite X, will also unbalance the bath and its operation.
If I increase the amp setting, will the layer thicken and the process be faster?
Increasing the ampere setting will lead to faster results. If the ampere is set too high, the object will “burn,” turning it deep red or brown, with a bumpy surface and other undesirable structure. Ensure an even deposition rate by setting the current to at least 0.1 and no higher than 0.2–0.3 amps per 10 cm².
The layer thickness also depends on the copper electrolyte. With the V-Brite 100 seller system, you can apply a thick layer of copper very quickly. The V-Brite 200 system, on the other hand, is very suitable for applying a thin, shiny layer of copper. The latter will not create a very thick layer of copper even with high settings.
Lines appear on my object. What is happening and how can I stop it?
The appearance of lines on the object is caused by stress fields in the electrolyte. This can occur due to one of the following reasons:
- The object is placed too close to the anode.
- Lack of agitation/circulation in the bath. Circulation of the electrolyte is achieved by adding an aquarium pump, air pump or a magnetic stirrer to the electroforming pool to keep the liquid moving. The flow creates a stirring effect in the bath that helps to evenly cover the surface of the copper ions.
- Supersaturation of copper ions in the electrolyte.
- Lack of glazing agent.
How do I get those bubbles in the texture of the copper at the edges of my designs that look like coral growth?
The texture at the edges of the object arises automatically when the copper has completely covered the object and cannot spread further, causing the copper to pile up. The longer the object remains in the bath, the larger the build-up.
Increasing the amperage will not help achieve this look faster, but may lead to burning or unwanted texture on the rest of the surface.
The V-Brite 100 and 200 electrolyte is not very suitable for creating copper crystals due to the glazing agent present. This is made to get a smooth and shiny finish.
The conductive paint on my workpiece cracks. Why does this happen?
This can happen if:
- Too much paint is applied at once.
- Additional layers are applied before the underlying layer has dried.
- It is important to let each layer of conductive coating or sealer dry thoroughly before applying the next layer.
- If a water-repellent sealer is used, such as the Verzinkshop Electroforming Sealer, it is wise to let it dry for 6 to 24 hours, depending on the size of the design and the number of layers applied.
- If the conductive coating, such as Verzinkshop Conserve, is not shaken or stirred well enough, the graphite will sink down and the object will be mainly covered with volatile substances.
Always make sure that a conductive coating is applied correctly. Without adequate curing, the conductive paint applied over another layer of conductive paint or sealer, which has not fully cured, will lead to undesirable texture or large cracks, peeling paint, or many small bubbles.
My first few projects came out of the tub shiny, but now my pieces are dull/pink/matte/salmon while I don’t do anything else. Why?
Several things can contribute to this result. If adding additional electrolyte does not improve the finish, it is usually the result of:
- Too low a current setting for the surface. Provide a value of at least 0.1 ampere per 10 cm².
- Supersaturation of copper ions in the solution due to too much surface area of the anode in relation to the size of the object and too low a level of distilled water. By using a 2:1 anode-cathode ratio, along with replenishing evaporated distilled water, you can maintain the copper and acid ratio in the solution. Filter the liquid as indicated in the manual.
- Contamination, for example organic, in the solution that causes the brightener to stop working and the pH value to be out of balance. Filter the liquid as indicated in the manual.
With steel wool, a brass brush, a Dremel or other polishing material you can quickly restore the shine. This is also possible with electropolishing.
Why can’t I set up my lab power supply by turning the Volt knob?
Think of electricity as water flowing through a pipe.
Volt tells us how much ‘pressure’ there is behind the water. It is the force with which the water is pushed through the pipe. A higher voltage means more pressure, just like the water from a high-pressure washer can spray harder and further.
Amps, or current, lets us know how much water is flowing through the pipe. More amps means more water passing through the pipe per second, just as a wider river can carry more water than a small stream.
So, volts (voltage) measure the force with which electricity is ‘pushed’, and amperes (amperage) measure how much electricity is actually flowing.
By indicating how much electricity you want to flow, the power supply itself determines how much pressure should be behind it in connection with the resistance it encounters. The resistance is determined by various factors, such as the copper anodes, the electrical connections, conductivity of the paint and the resistance of the electrolyte.
So you only use the ampere knob to adjust the power supply, since each project requires a different setting (about 0.1 amps per every 10 cm² of surface that needs to be covered).
The volt knob must be turned all the way up to the maximum to utilize the maximum capacities of the power supply. But in practice you never exceed a few volts; You often even stay below 1 volt if everything is connected correctly.
The reading of the voltmeter will vary from project to project based on the resistance of the electrolyte and depends on variables such as the size of the object, the resistance of the conductive coating used, the age and condition of the electrolyte, the thickness of the copper wire, the electrical wire connections etc.
Can I run the electroforming process while I am asleep or is that dangerous?
The process can continue overnight. This is not recommended for beginners, as it is recommended to check the process every hour, for example, to make any adjustments. An unattended tank can lead to problems such as unwanted texture, fusing of the hanging wire with the project, and smudged or uneven coverage of the copper. If everything is connected correctly and safely, there is no further risk of fire.
However, there may be a fire hazard if you work carelessly! Think of putting the plus and minus cables on top of each other and not paying attention. If something goes wrong somewhere in the system, the cables can get hot, melt and cause a short circuit. The cables themselves are not likely to catch fire, but flammable material on which they are placed, such as a wooden workstation, can catch fire.
Should I be afraid of electric shock?
No, there is no reason to fear electric shock during normal use. A benchtop power supply used for electroforming operates at a very low current and cannot cause shock.
If you turn on the power supply and you grab both cables with two wet hands while you have open wounds, you can of course feel this. Use your common sense!
Can I leave the cathode in the electroforming solution overnight if I turn off the power supply?
It is not recommended, but it can be done if necessary. If you plan to continue the next day or beyond, there will be no major damage to the electrolyte, anode, or cathode. However, it is a bad practice to develop as it contributes to dissolving the copper anode and oversaturation of copper ions in the solution, which can cause problems later on.
What can I do to prevent my project from floating in the solution?
Lightweight items such as plastic, wood, or other organic materials will float once immersed in the solution.
You can use thicker copper wire, which doesn’t bend as easily, to keep the object submerged by attaching the copper wire to the nylon bar with a clamp. This way you can “steer” the object into the electrolyte and hold it in place. Make sure it’s not too thick so that the copper wire doesn’t affect the power supply settings. If it is very thick, calculate the surface area of the copper wire.
To prevent the piece from floating, you can use a glass anchor and a short piece of nylon thread. Attach one end of the nylon thread to the hook of the hanging thread and the other end to the glass anchor. Glass and nylon are ideal materials to use, as they are non-conductive and do not affect the process and do not contaminate the bath. This will help to weigh down the object until enough copper has built up to remain submerged in the solution on its own.
With organic material, such as a leaf, you can make sure that the leaf has been immersed in the electroforming liquid. Just let it float and make sure that the copper wire does come into contact with the electrolyte. As long as the copper wire makes contact with the electrolyte, the object will be coated with a layer of copper at the bottom and will automatically become heavier, causing it to sink further on its own. Check every now and then to make sure everything is going correctly and make the necessary adjustments if the object does not sink completely on its own.
When should I use a heating element?
Temperature affects the process and the additives in the electrolyte. If the solution is too cold, problems may occur. Keep the temperature in the workspace at least 18 °C or higher. Use a submersible aquarium heater or place the cup on a heating mat to heat the electrolyte to optimal working conditions.
The ideal temperatures are indicated in the electrolyte manual.
My electroforming container, anodes and other material is full of blue crystals. Why is this happening and what should I do now?
This happens when the water in the solution evaporates. The blue crystals are copper sulfate, and the oily substance around them is sulfuric acid. The copper sulfate will crystallize on the anode if it is left unattended in the solution. You can restore and reuse the solution by adding distilled water to the tank up to the line that was placed when starting the bath. Use only distilled or demineralised water — no mineral water or tap water.
Be careful when cleaning and disposing of the blue crystals. Use proper personal protection for the copper sulfate and sulfuric acid. Do not flush it down the drain; Copper sulphate is very bad for the environment!
How long does the electroforming fluid last?
The electrolyte can be reused indefinitely if maintenance is carried out on the electrolyte and the pH value is checked and adjusted.
Electroforming fluid maintenance
Here are some guidelines for maintaining the solution/electrolyte:
- Always replenish the evaporated water of the electrolyte by periodically topping it up with distilled or demineralized water, up to the marking. This helps to maintain the ratio of copper to acid in the solution. An excess of copper ions in the solution can lead to dull or textured surfaces. Filter the solution between uses or when needed. Use coffee filters, lab filters, 1-micron polyfelt filter sheets, or an anode bag.
- With each use, the brightener in the solution will decrease and need to be replenished. Refill Verzinkshop Shop V-Brite X according to the manual. Too much will cause a brittle layer.
- Avoid contamination of the solution by organic materials and soft stones. Always seal porous surfaces tightly with a sealer. Remove any residue from baking soda or other contaminants by rinsing the item well.
- If the solution has become contaminated, filter the solution through, for example, a coffee filter and a funnel. If the solution still does not work properly after this, filter the solution through an activated carbon or charcoal filter. Please note that when using carbon/charcoal filters, all brighteners will be removed and will need to be re-added before the electroforming process can start again.
- If the contamination is due to iron, aluminum, steel or other unknown metals, run the bath for an extended period of time with a “dummy” or a piece of waste copper to purify the impurities in the solution.
Over time, the pH level may need to be restored by sulfuric acid or distilled water. The ideal pH value is between 0.5 and 1.0. Use a digital pH meter to measure the current condition of the bath. Take notes during the process for future maintenance and troubleshooting. If necessary, set aside part of the solution for comparison and to carry out maintenance tests.
Low pH Measurement:
Add distilled water until the pH value is reduced between 0.5 and 1.0.
Use a very small anode and a piece of waste copper or a dummy object to remove excess copper and oversaturation of copper ions by running the process for an hour.
High pH measurement:
Use small amounts of 15–30 ml of sulphuric acid in relation to the bath created (private individuals can purchase no more than 15%, business users can purchase and use 37% or 96% sulphuric acid).
Do a pH test, add a little sulfuric acid at a time, and test until you reach the pH level between 0.5 and 1.0. Test the process using a dummy object or a piece of waste copper to check the result and add more sulfuric acid if necessary.
What should I do if I want to get rid of my electrolyte?
If for some reason you don’t want to keep the solution, don’t pour it down the sink. Neutralize it with baking soda and let the water evaporate to reduce its volume before taking it to a local hazardous waste collection service.
Why is my solution cloudy?
If the ampere setting is too high, too much copper will end up in the liquid, which will not adhere to the object. This accelerates quickly because the liquid becomes unbalanced, so less copper can adhere to the object. This surplus of copper is too much to be filtered through the anode dressing or filter pump. In this case, use a coffee filter for filtration.
In the case of organic contamination, caused by a poorly applied or damaged coating, the electrolyte can come into contact with organic material. This material can soften and dissolve, causing it to end up in the electrolyte. Think, for example, of a fruit or flower. Filter the electrolyte first with a coffee filter and then with activated carbon.
If a conductive or other coating is not properly dried, it can soften, dissolve and thus contaminate the electrolyte. In this case, the electrolyte should first be filtered with a coffee filter and then with activated carbon. However, it may also be necessary to replace the electrolyte completely.
Can I electroform multiple objects at the same time?
Yes, several objects can be edited at the same time. Only do this if you have enough experience with a single object and can perform this process without any problems with a good end result.
Failure to follow these guidelines will lead to uneven and unpredictable outcomes:
- All items in a shared tank should be similar in size and shape, due to the parallel circuit in this tank. In a parallel circuit, the current will follow the path of least resistance, so all objects must have the same resistance for even coverage.
- Each object must either all be connected to the same wire or hung individually on a conductive copper rod. Do not hang the objects too close together, otherwise they will interfere with each other’s power reception.
- The ampere setting is determined by adding up the total surface area of the objects.
If you have any questions or other problems and you can’t solve them? Please contact us by mail: info@verzinkshop.nl